MORE SPACE, DONE PROPERLY
House Extensions Designed and Built
Rear, side, two storey or wrap-around, the right extension is the one the existing house can actually take. We start with what is there, then design the space you need around it, and we build it ourselves.
The Options
which kind of extension your house wants.
A single storey rear extension is the most common answer and often the right one. It suits kitchens and family space, it can be lit well from above where the plan gets deep, and it usually causes least disruption because you are not touching bedrooms or the roof. The risk with a deep one is the middle: pull the back wall out four metres and the old rear rooms can end up dark unless the roof lights are planned properly.
A two storey extension is the better value per square metre because the foundations and roof serve two floors instead of one, but it is a bigger planning question. Officers look at bulk on the rear elevation, at overlooking from new upper windows, and at whether the extension reads as subordinate to the original house. Two storey work is also more likely to bring the Party Wall Act into play and more likely to need a scaffold licence on a tight plot.
A wrap-around, which is a rear extension carried round into the side return, is the one that transforms a Victorian or Edwardian terrace or semi. It takes the awkward outrigger arrangement, the narrow side alley and the dark middle room and turns them into one plan. It also needs the most careful drainage thinking, because that side return is usually where the soil pipe and the gully live.
- Single storey rear extensions and side infills
- Two storey and part two storey extensions
- Wrap-around extensions to terraces and semis
- Side return infills on Victorian and Edwardian houses
- Orangeries, garden rooms and glazed link structures
- Internal reconfiguration to make the existing rooms work with the new ones
Our Process
how we work.
Site Visit
We measure the house, look at levels, drains and boundaries, and find out how you use the place now.
Options
Two or three genuine approaches, so the shape of the extension is a decision rather than a default.
Route
We establish whether the scheme is permitted development, needs prior approval, or needs a full application.
Approvals
Planning and building regulations submitted and managed, including neighbour and officer correspondence.
Party Walls
Where the Act applies, notices are served in good time rather than after the digger is booked.
Build
Groundworks through to decoration, run by the practice that designed it, to the quote you were given.
East Riding of Yorkshire
an extension is a whole house project.
Adding forty square metres to the back changes how every room in front of it works. The good schemes spend as much thought on the rooms you already have as on the ones being added.
Permission
you may already be allowed to build it.
Householder permitted development rights allow a good deal of extension work without a full planning application, subject to limits on depth, height, position and how much of the garden gets built on. The limits differ between detached houses and attached ones, side extensions are treated more restrictively than rear ones, and there is a separate prior approval route for larger single storey rear extensions where neighbours are consulted before it is allowed.
The exceptions are where it gets technical. Permitted development rights do not apply to flats and maisonettes, they are reduced on designated land including conservation areas, they are further restricted on listed buildings, and an Article 4 direction can remove them entirely for a particular street or area. Newer estate houses often have their rights removed by a condition on the original planning permission, which is easy to miss if nobody reads the decision notice for the estate.
Where a scheme does fall within permitted development, we normally recommend applying for a lawful development certificate anyway. It is cheaper than a full application, it gets a definitive answer in writing, and it removes an awkward question from your solicitor's list when you come to sell.
- Permitted development assessment before any design is committed to
- Prior approval applications for larger single storey rear extensions
- Lawful development certificates for schemes built under permitted development
- Full householder planning applications where rights do not apply
- Checks for Article 4 directions and conditions removing rights

Neighbours And Boundaries
party walls, and getting them right first.
The Party Wall etc. Act 1996 is separate from planning and separate from building regulations, and it catches most extensions in one way or another. Cutting into or building off a shared wall, building right up to the boundary line, or excavating foundations close to a neighbour's structure all trigger a notice. The notice periods are not trivial either, so serving them late is one of the quickest ways to lose a month.
Handled early, it is usually a formality and neighbours consent in writing. Handled late, or handled badly, it turns into surveyors on both sides and a schedule of condition being argued over. We raise it at design stage, because sometimes moving a foundation a few hundred millimetres avoids the whole exercise.
The same early thinking applies to drainage. Many extensions end up over or near a shared drain or a public sewer, in which case a build over agreement with the water authority is normally needed. Yorkshire Water covers most of this region. It is a straightforward process when the drainage survey happens before the design is fixed, and a difficult one when a manhole appears in the middle of a foundation trench.
- Party wall notices served at the right time, with the right periods
- Boundary and line of junction assessment at design stage
- Drainage surveys and build over agreements with the water authority
- Neighbour consultation handled by us rather than left to you

Making It Work
light, levels and the rooms you already have.
The extensions that feel worth the money are the ones where the old part of the house improved as well. That usually means one or two things. Getting daylight into the deep middle of the plan, whether through roof lights, a lantern or a glazed link. And rethinking circulation, so the new space is not reached through a bottleneck that made sense when the house had four small rooms.
The technical side follows the same logic. Floor levels between the old house and the new build need resolving properly rather than with a step nobody wanted. Heating has to be reconsidered, because an existing boiler and radiator layout sized for the old house may not cover the new volume. Glazing is where Part L bites, so large sliding doors and lanterns are designed alongside the insulation strategy rather than added on top of it. All of that is easier when the same practice is drawing the detail and building it.
- Daylight strategy for deep plans, including lanterns and roof lights
- Level thresholds and floor build-ups resolved between old and new
- Heating and ventilation reassessed for the extended house
- Structural openings between old and new designed with the engineer
- Kitchen, utility and services layout coordinated before the walls go up

Recent Work
selected projects.




Questions
frequently asked.
Do I need planning permission for a house extension?
Not always. Many single storey rear extensions fall within householder permitted development, subject to limits on depth, height, eaves height near a boundary and how much of the garden is built on. Those rights are reduced in conservation areas, do not apply to flats, and can be removed by an Article 4 direction or a condition on the estate's original permission.
What is the prior approval route for larger extensions?
It is a separate procedure that allows a deeper single storey rear extension than standard permitted development, on the condition that the council notifies your adjoining neighbours first. If nobody objects within the consultation period, the work can proceed. If someone does, the council decides whether the impact on their amenity is acceptable.
Is a two storey extension better value than a single storey one?
Per square metre, usually yes, because one set of foundations and one roof serves two floors. The trade-off is planning risk and disruption. Officers scrutinise bulk, overlooking and whether the extension stays subordinate to the original house, and you are working above the existing bedrooms rather than beside them.
What is a wrap-around extension?
It is a rear extension carried around into the side return, which is the narrow strip alongside the rear outrigger on a typical Victorian or Edwardian house. It produces a much better ground floor plan than either part would on its own. The drainage in that side alley usually needs sorting out as part of it.
How long does an extension take to build?
A straightforward single storey rear extension is generally a matter of weeks on site once groundworks start, and a two storey extension or a wrap-around runs into months. The design and approvals stage before that is usually the longer part, because planning determination alone is normally eight weeks from validation.
Will I have to move out?
Usually not. Most of the new structure is built before the existing rear wall is opened up, so the genuinely disruptive stretch is short. Whole house remodelling, or anything that takes out your only kitchen or only bathroom for a long period, is worth planning around, and we would raise it before you commit.
Do I need a party wall agreement?
If you are cutting into a shared wall, building on the boundary line, or excavating foundations within the distances set out in the Party Wall etc. Act, then notice has to be served on the affected neighbour. Many neighbours simply consent in writing. The important part is serving in time, because the statutory notice periods run into weeks.
What happens if there is a drain under the extension?
It depends what kind of drain it is. A private drain serving only your house can often be diverted. A public sewer or a lateral drain shared with neighbours normally needs a build over or build near agreement with the water authority. A drainage survey early in the design is far cheaper than a redesign at foundation stage.
Can I have bifold or sliding doors across the whole rear wall?
In most cases yes, but the glazing area affects Part L compliance, so it has to be balanced elsewhere in the fabric with better insulation, better glass or improved airtightness. Structurally the opening needs a beam sized by an engineer, and the threshold detail needs designing properly if you want a flush finish that stays watertight.
Will an extension make my existing rooms darker?
It can, and that is one of the more common regrets. Pushing the rear wall out several metres leaves the middle of the plan further from any window. It is solvable with roof lights, a lantern, a glazed link or a change to the internal layout, but it has to be designed in rather than noticed afterwards.
Do the foundations need to be deeper than I expect?
Sometimes. Foundation depth depends on the ground conditions, on any nearby trees, and on whether the soil is shrinkable clay, where seasonal movement and root influence can require a significantly deeper trench. Building control will inspect the excavation before concrete goes in, and that visit sets the depth in practice.
Does an extension add value to the house?
It usually does, though we would rather talk about whether it makes the house work for you, because the value depends on the local ceiling price and on how well the extension is done. A well planned extension that improves the whole ground floor tends to be worth considerably more than a large box tacked onto the back.
Can you design an extension for a house in a conservation area?
Yes. Permitted development rights are reduced on designated land, so a full application is more likely, and the officer will pay close attention to materials, window proportions, roof form and whether the extension is visible from the street. Rear extensions that keep away from public views are generally the more straightforward starting point.
Do you build the extension as well as design it?
Yes, that is how the practice is set up. The architect who designs your extension oversees the build, so the detail that was drawn is the detail that gets constructed, and the build cost quoted at the outset is the one we stick to.
Where We Work
House Extensions Across Yorkshire
More Ways We Help
Our Other Services
start with the house you have.
A free consultation at the property, an honest view on what it will take, and a design that makes the whole ground floor better.